Everest Base Camp Trek Day 18: Karikhola to Taksindu Pass

We met a guide earlier on the trek who told us this was going to be a difficult day and he was right. We continued downhill to Jubhing and then started the steep ascent to the Taksindu Pass (Taksindu La). It took us seven and a half hours to reach our destination. Luckily, we had only one rain shower which we avoided when having a terrible lunch in Nunthala. We climbed a total of 1,390 metres up to the Taksindu Pass and again arrived as it was getting dark. It started to rain as we arrived but we didn’t mind as we settled into the small lodge right at the top of the Taksindu pass. It was just us and the family who ran the lodge for the evening and it was a great experience eating with the family, playing with the kids and hanging out around the open fire clay oven.

Everest Base Camp Trek Day 19: Taksindu-La to Junbesi

Local woman wearing nose jewellery in the Newari style in the village of Ringmu

The walk from the pass to Junbesi was nice. We started going steadily downhill to Ringmu, across a bridge and then the path began to gradually wind up to the small town of Salung. We took a short break at the viewpoint at Phurteng but the clouds obstructed the Everest view which you could apparently get here on a clear day. From the viewpoint it was downhill gradually a total of 300 metres. The path wound through a wooded area before reaching the river, where we crossed a bridge to the town of Junbesi, home to a large Buddhist monastery. In keeping with the last few days, the rain started as we walked towards the tea-house and we spent the rest of the day hanging around the common room talking with other hikers, most of whom were on their way up except for one Czech group also on their way down. I guess we’d be seeing them the next day.

Young girl playing in the straw in the tiny village of Ringmu

Everest Base Camp Trek Day 20: Junbesi to Kinja

Stupa at the top of the Lamjura La (Pass) on day 20 of the Everest Base Camp Trek

From Junbesi we had a steep climb, gaining 500 metres in altitude to the Lamjura La Pass. The trail wound through a forested area which was lucky as the rain started again. Climbing up through the forest, we passed a group of high-spirited porters carrying their loads’ sherpa style, singing and shouting “Namaste” as they hurried past us. We reached the top of the pass and it suddenly became very cold. Looking at the map we saw we were back up at an altitude of 3,530 metres which was higher than Namche Bazaar. There was thick cloud cover and we couldn’t see far in front of us. It began snowing and we stopped into a tiny local house for lunch. There was a small group of elderly Nepalese men and women sitting around the fire and seeing we were wet and cold they gestured for us to join them. They didn’t speak much English and so we sat smiling at each other and drying off as, thankfully, the weather outside cleared. The path from here to Kinja was downhill but quite rocky and uneven so it was slow going. We arrived in Kinja after dark with our headlamps illuminating the path ahead. We found Sherpa Guesthouse, which had been recommended by the family at lunch, and settled in for the night. Once again we shared the tea-house with only the Czech group and the family who ran the place. After a big meal of Dal Baht, we went to bed refuelled and ready for the next day.

Having lunch with locals around the open fire at the top of the Lamjura La (Pass)

Brian Barry

Brian is a travel writer, photographer, blogger, travel addict and adventure-junkie. Being outdoors, getting off the beaten track and outside his comfort zone is what makes him tick. Brian’s the dreamer in the relationship; when he’s not travelling, he’s dreaming about it! Keeping fit, cooking, music and red wine take up the rest of his time.