“It’s filthy and smelly but really cool all the same”, “I saw a dead body float by our boat”, “don’t touch the water”, “it was the only place in India we got sick”, these were the reports we had heard from friends and other travellers prior to our arrival in the holy...
Throughout our travels, we have met a lot of people, all with tales of how crazy Delhi can be. Some stories were more positive than others however, the common theory seemed to be ‘get in, see the sights of Delhi and get out’. We always take other people’s...
Rishikesh is a holy Indian city set along the banks of the Ganges river and people come from all over India to pay homage to Ganga, the river goddess. During the Shivaratri festival Indians come from near and far to gather the river’s blessed water and bring it back...
Taking the cheapest public bus from Shimla to Haridwar in hindsight probably wasn’t the best idea we’ve ever had. Sitting around the bus station before the sun had even come up we waited and waited and were beginning to worry we had missed the bus when all of a...
The streets around the bus stand at the famous colonial hill station of Shimla in Himachal Pradesh were quiet when our bus rolled in in the early hours of the morning. We had hardly slept on the overnight bus trip and being ripped off, followed and pestered was the...
The sky became darker as the bus wound its way up the mountainside towards the Indian hill station of Dharamsala. As it had been threatening to do all day, the weather finally broke and as it began pouring rain there was a mad scramble to get all the bags off the roof...
Thirty kilometres west of Amritsar is the India/Pakistan border crossing of Wagah. Every evening a border closing ceremony is performed here for patriotic Indians, Pakistanis and tourists at sunset to mark the official closing of the border. Soldiers from both sides...
Bright orange turbans, long silver swords, incessant honking and streets where everything from elephants to rickshaws have to compete for space, Amritsar is an assault on the senses like no other place I’ve ever visited. The Old City is a maze of narrow,...